Pears
I have always fostered a daydream about one day living in a house with a big green space full of fruit trees and an edible garden. . .
Maybe this dream comes from having read Charlie and the Chocolate Factory too many times and falling in love with the incredible concept that you can walk into a totally edible space. I think being a chef is kind of like creating your own edible world like this. Walking into a kitchen is like walking into someone’s chocolate factory full of ingredients and spices and endless flavors. Luckily, I haven’t heard of anyone turning into a blueberry yet.
The closest I think I have come to this fruit tree daydream, since I have pretty much always lived in an urban place, was when I was 17 years old and took a trip to Home Depot. There was this crooked, beautiful snow pear tree that was barely as tall as I was. I bought it for $20 and brought it home to my apartment and planted it in the 5 ft x 5 ft sq garden patch in front of the door. While I still lived there, I spoke to it regularly and petted its trunk. I loved that tree like one would a pet. It took years for it to grow (still crooked!) and produce fruit, and in the meantime, I had moved to Berlin, Germany and started my career as a designer and artist. My mother moved to a different place, but a neighbor started making jam from the pears each August. Apparently, this crooked tree is still causing controversy in the house to this day, but for me it was the first step towards a life I am still building over a decade later.
I have not heard of pears creating controversy the way avocadoes or oranges have beyond the neighborly disputes in my childhood front yard. The fruit itself seems to have the same influence in the world as it does in dishes: smooth, juicy, and refreshing. That said, there have been controversies revolving around the pear as a logo. Apparently, Natalie Monson of the “Super Healthy Kids” blog, used a pear logo in her food app. Apple inc. decided this was an infringement of their fruit logo patent. I wonder if the similarities between the roots of apples and pears came into the defense in court. Beyond speaking to the similarities of the fruit, I wonder if I should worry that all fruit depictions are up for grab since there are all in the same genus.
Strangely, pears are essentially apples. There are just barely different enough as cultivars to be considered a separate fruit altogether. The snow pear is one of the closest relatives to what was one of the first pears ever existing in ancient China. Pears travelled along the silk road and made their way into the hearts of middle-easterners and Europeans, changing along the way to create D’Anjou and Bosc pears that are more common around the USA. Each of these pears has specialized attributes and best practices to eat them. They are possibly more different than different apples are.
Another similarity between pears and apples is that they must be grafted to grow. That means that if you plant a pear seed in the ground you will get a kind of “crab pear” that birds love, but you will likely not be a fan of. They are bitter and hard and small. Instead, if you want to grow pears, you will have to find a branch of an already existing pear tree. If you foster and plant this branch, it will grow roots and turn into another pear tree with moist luscious fruit to enjoy!
Fall is the time for pears and there is something luxurious about them. I think this association is very strong in the recipes to follow. The gentle sweetness of the pear lends itself well to counter strong flavors like blue cheese, walnut paste or dark chocolate. Pears, when ripe, can offer an incredible freshness to more hearty meals like short ribs. Pears act as a burst of relief in otherwise overbearing flavor combinations. They are like the fresh buds that pop out too early at the end of winter: joy incarnate.